Squashing Summer to Fall

As summer harvest is at its peak, I start to think and calibrate my senses for fall. I stop thinking summer squash and start thinking winter squash.

One of my favorite pairings I have been playing with over the last several years is heirloom Squash Soup. Every chef has their own take on this soup. The classic heirloom squash most chefs use is butternut squash, but now we see many heirloom varietals. Pairing squash soup can be tricky. How much cream or butter is added? How much spice? Is the squash roasted of boiled? How refined is the soup—is it chunky or pureed smooth? Is it garnished with crème fraiche, sour cream, or crab? All these variables are considered when choosing a wine.

With a rich creamy style of squash soup, I prefer a full bodied chardonnay that has undergone a good amount of malo, but still has good acidity. When the soup becomes spicy with cinnamon, nutmeg, and curries I lean towards an off-dry gewürztraminer or Vouvray which counteracts the spice. I also like a dry fortified Madeira with a bright acidity, served slightly chilled. (Rare Wine Co. “Charleston Sercial,” Available at Binny’s Beverage Depot if you are in the Chicago area) When the squashes are roasted or grilled, I start thinking about reds and pinot noirs are perfect. A pinot noir from Sonoma’s Russian River Valley has the fruit, earth, and weightiness to compliment any squash soup. (I like some of the single vineyard pinots from Martinelli Winery)