American Food (Allergies?) Restrictions

I am constantly researching food allergies that arise in America.  Some allergies are not allergies, but toxins, or digestive issues.  Some people are more tolerant to certain foodstuffs than others.  For instance, all of us should not eat raw stinging nettles or unprocessed tapioca starch.  Most of us are somewhat lactose intolerant to cow's milk—it just depends to how much cow's milk one consumes.  Anyone who has eaten excessive amounts of raw cow's milk cheese will understand what I am talking about!  We must eat everything in moderation and not too much of one foodstuff.

The following are brief definitions and explanations of some common food aversions in America.
FDA Legally defined Vegetarian Definitions
Vegan—no animal product, no dairy and egg
Vegetarian—no animal product, okay dairy and egg
Lacto Vegetarian—no animal product, okay dairy
Ovo Vegetarian—no animal product, okay egg
Pescatarian or Fishatarian—no animal product, okay seafood, okay dairy & egg

Seafood Allergies
Finfish—fish that have fins! Eels depends on ones definition-generally considered finfish.

Shellfish
Bivalves (2 shells)—oysters, clams, mussels, scallops, cockles, etc.
Univalves (1 shell)—snails (mollusks), periwinkles, etc.
Crustaceans—crab, shrimp, lobster, langoustines, etc.
Cephalopods—squid, cuttlefish, octopus, anything with tentacles
Frogs are amphibians and can be grouped in this category as well.

Celiac & Gluten Allergy
No wheat products. (varying thresholds of this allergy) gluten is a naturally occurring chemical in wheat. Barley, rye, oats, bran, farro are generally accepted types of wheat. Rice does not contain gluten. Glutinous rice is a term to describe sticky and certain types of sushi rice.

Nut, Bean, Legumes, and Seed Allergies
Tree nuts—any nut that grows on a tree: almonds, cashews, walnuts, pecans, Brazil nuts, pistachios etc. Coconuts are nuts!
Legumes—peanuts are not a nut, they grow in the ground! They are considered a legume. Lentils are in this category as well, etc.
Beans—white, red, black, many different kinds, fresh and dried.
Seeds—usually not an allergy, but digestive system cannot break down seeds.
Kosher
Jewish Kosher laws, many different interpretations, hard core Kosher food has to be blessed by Rabbi. Usually no pork, shellfish, certain bottom feeding fish, and game birds (duck).

Nightshades
Vegetables that grow at night! 1500 classified varieties, very individual specific. Tomato and eggplant are most common.

Lactose Intolerance
Not an allergy! Many different thresholds! Intestine lack certain types of bacteria to break down dairy products. As an individual grows older bacteria dissipates. Is specific to cow’s milk! You can have a lactose intolerant person order cheese with goat or sheep’s milk! Many lactose intolerant persons can have hard cheeses like Parmesan Reggiano because the lactic acids have been broken down in the aging process.

Mushrooms & Fungus
Similar to seafood and shellfish that they can be very individual specific. Truffles are a fungus that grows in the ground.

Sulfites
Naturally occurring in nature & artificial sulfites are used as a food & drug preservative. They are mostly associated with some vinegars and (red) wine. Sulfites are naturally occurring in all grapes and cause an allergic reaction with about 5% of asthmatics at varying thresholds. A 1986 FDA law requires red wines to be labeled “contains sulfites,” because it has more than 100 parts per million. This does not mean the wine is inferior. 
MSG
Mono Sodium Glutamate, After WWII Japanese food scientists discovered this chemical and proved it to enhance the flavors of food. It is technically banned in the U.S. but, can be procured in any Chinatown. It is thought to cause cancer and genetic diseases, but is for the most part harmless. It was used in many Americanized Chinese restaurants in the 60’s and 70’s and was thought to have made a lot of people sick, but it was actually sanitation issues with Chinese immigrant restaurateurs. (They have a lot different standards in China and certain bacteria forms in rice that is held in steamer for many hours.)

Trichinosis
A parasitic worm that is generally associated with undercooked pork (can also come from wild game, bears, or any animals that eat raw garbage.) The WWII generation especially wants their pork well done. There hasn’t been a case a trichinosis since WWII???. It is okay to eat pork medium or even raw (for those swine lovers).

Offal
Yes this is a word, meaning describing organ meats. (liver, brain, sweetbreads, kidneys, tongue, etc.) Derives from the middle Germanic word ab-fal. It was used to describe organ meats from venison that would spoil quicker than other cuts.

Rhubarb
The “doughboys” of WW1 may be to blame for this one. The American soldiers ate the leaves of the Rhubarb, which are poisonous; making the American public after WW1 think rhubarb is poisonous. The pink stalks are not. A lot of older Americans think they are allergic to rhubarb because at some point they probably ate the poisonous leaves.

Wine & Fire (BBQ) Scenarios


It is summer and the warm weather makes me want to explore the primitive man of hunter-gatherer times with fire. As we have evolved to understand grapes and fermentation, here are a few scenarios of fire inspired food and wine pairings. I have placed the scenarios in an appropriate progression and I will probably be replicating at a BBQ this summer.

If I was picking asparagus, just like the opening scenes of The Mosquito Coast with Harrison Ford, I would grill them with lemon and olive oil. I would be drinking sauvignon blanc from the commune of Pouilly Fume. There is something about the silex chunks (soil type) that draws out the smoky mineral qualities of the wine.

If I was camping in the woods and caught a delicious bass (VOTE FOR PEDRO!), I would wrap it in bacon, put a stick in it, and roast it whole over a camp fire. I would enjoy a Willamette Valley pinot noir from the Dundee Hills. There is something about the red jory soil that makes me want to smell camp fires, cedar, and conifers.

I don’t believe the Naperville Ribfest allows outside food and beverage, but if they were charging corkage I would bring a Syrah to enjoy with ribs, beef brisket, and pulled pork. Specifically, since I would be enjoying it with a more crowd neutral palate, I would enjoy a syrah with grapes sourced from the Bien Nacido Vineyard in Santa Barbara County. If I was with fellow sommeliers we would be drinking Chave Ermitage—Yes, most sommeliers are Chave-Heads.


A short trip to Michigan would net me a peck of pickled peaches. I would proceed to grill them with a maple brown sugar glaze. A full bodied ripe California Viognier to pair with the peaches—stone fruits and ripe tropical notes to complete the fire experience.

***For authenticity and gastronomic integrity, all fires should be fueled with wood and charcoal. No gas or propane please—but if that's all you've got, it will do.

Sommelier's Favorite Movie Scenes

The following are some of my favorite food and wine related movie scenes.  For some odd reason, sommeliers only seem to remember food and wine references in movies.  Regrettably, I am totally perplexed about the food and drink in Star Wars.

For consistency of a dish and to keep the accountants happy watch this.

Mr. Creosote explains gluttony.  Please eat in moderation.

I will always make an effort to find a guest a table if they want to eat at the restaurant.  This might help to explain how.

Why Merlot sales have fallen off the map.  Sommeliers slightly scorn when old vines are ripped up to make way for pinot noir.

The Chef, while looking for mangos, explains how the United States Navy cooks Prime Rib and why he requested transfer to Radio School.
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=94a_1258626424

SugarToad Bar Tour

This is a brief tour of the SugarToad Bar with many libations and artisan spirits.  We are rooted in classical cocktail technique emphasizing seasonal ingredients.  For instance, the mint that one may enjoy in their mojito during the warm summer months was most likely picked several hours earlier from our garden.  Our drinks usually take a few extra moments, but we feel it is well worth the effort. 

We make our own bitters to enhance the cocktail experience.  We currently have about a dozen types including lavender and chocolate.  Bitters are a bartender's seasoning and bring cocktails to an entire new dimension of flavor enjoyment. We enjoy staff field trips to Merz Apothecary on Chicago's Northside for our bittering procurement.  They sell all kinds of speciality herbs and botanicals.  http://www.merzapothecary.com/

Our mixes are made fresh.  We don't offer Rose's Lime Juice and prefer to squeeze citrus ourselves.  There is absolutely nothing like a gimlet made with freshly squeezed lime juice or a margarita with fresh made sour mix.  We don't have any pre-made mixes and we have authentic Italian Maraschino Cherries—they are not bright red, but a rusty red and preserved in brandy.  We also make our own Grenadine!

We love American Craft Beer and offer about fifty selections.  Our favorite brewmaster is Jason Ebel of Two Brothers located just five minutes down the road in Warrenville, Illinois.  We usually have a secret stash of Two Brothers special releases behind the bar for the beer enthusiast. 

We make our own ginger beer which is acidic, balanced, and refreshing.  It sure beats commercial products with lots of additives and high fructose corn syrup.  It is perfect as a non-alcoholic beverage and great for the classic cocktails Dark N' Stormy or Moscow Mule.

A lot of our wines are small production and come from organic/biodynamic vineyard sources.  We have an extensive by the glass program and love to talk about wine and the history behind them.  We have many direct relationships with winemakers and take time to visit wineries to select the wines we offer.

We make our own ice cubes.  The perfect one inch cubes melt at a slower rate.  So when a guest requests one cube, they really get one cube with their Scotch or Bourbon.  Everything is about the ice!

We are constantly working on seasonal and classic cocktails.  One we are currently working on is the Aviator (Aviation).  It is a classic from the legendary Savoy Hotel in London and is gin based with Creme de Violette and Marischino Cherry Liqueur. 

At the end of the night you may find us cleaning and polishing lots of glassware.  If you are wondering about the stick in the first picture, Please Watch ...

 

How Sommeliers Garden Vines (Tomatoes)

This is my fourth season at growing heirloom tomatoes. Growing things is all about trial and error. It is the scientific method, and it starts and ends with observation. There are hundreds of varieties in all sizes, shapes, and colors—just like grapes. There are many issues and pests that one will encounter through the course of the growing season—just like grapes. Before I start growing grapes, I must first master the art of growing tomatoes.

It all begins with this grand idea of viticulture, just like agriculture or perhaps horticulture, but with grapes. I think that I can start my own vineyard and winery and make it look like the finest of Bordeaux Chateaus. Seems pretty easy (1) plant grape vines, (2) harvest grapes, (3) ferment! Reality kicks in. The economics of the wine trade are strange and there is no guarantee with Mother Nature. Starting a winery at this point in my life is not the best idea.

Wine in the Midwest…

I recall a conversation in college about how the Midwest has a similar continental climate to Germany and that Alsatian varietals are perfectly suited for the Midwest. I had sort of gotten that England─New England thing, but this conversation really started to make me think about Old World─New World relationships. The Midwest is quite a large area, depending how one defines it, and Alsatian varietals do quite well in the loamy limestone like soils in Western Michigan.

Wine in Illinois…

Now, grapes thrive between 30 and 50 degrees latitude, and theoretically, great wine can be made anywhere. But, it would probably take a savvy vigneron about a decade of trial and error before they could produce wine of world class quality. There are some emerging wineries in the Galena corridor—I suppose there are some interesting alluvial soil deposits from the mighty Mississippi and glacial character. The first big problem I see with grape growing in Illinois is that the land is mostly flat and absent of character. There is this thick black layer of top soil that is rich in nutrients—Yes, this is correct—The soil is too nutrient rich for grapes. Good for growing corn, but not grapes. Growing grapes is very counter-intuitive. You want soil that is not too fertile and you don’t want too much water. You want the grapes to struggle.

Grapes grow on vines and so do tomatoes! Here is how I grow them.

Step 1—Procure Heirloom Tomato Seeds. I got mine from http://www.tomatofest.com./ You will want a nice variety from cherry size to large beefsteak and a multitude of different colors and flavor profiles. Procure some short season and long season varieties. Do this at Christmas time. Each year I get more ambitious. The first season I obtained about 8 varietals and started 100 plants. This season I procured about thirty and started about 400 plants.

Step 2—Sow indoors in early March in accordance with the lunar cycle. (More on Biodynamics Later) I have a setup with 48” fluorescent tube lighting. You do not need to invest in all those fancy expensive grow lights. They may work better, but they are expensive. I purchased several shop lights from Menards and they have worked well every year. I start them in Biodegradable Jiffy Pots that you can get at any home/garden center. I fill each pot with potting soil with about 3 seeds and water. They will start popping up in about 7-10 days. I put them under the lights for about 16-18 hours a day and water every third day. About two weeks before the last frost I bring them outside to start adapting to the outdoors. (May 1) If you forgot to sow seeds this year and don’t want to wait till next year, it is okay to go to the garden center and buy them, preferably from an organic source. I have done this before I figured out how to sow them myself.

Step 3—Plant in ground after last frost. Make sure that they are at least 18” from one another. This is where I will have to stop because they just went into the ground this past week.  The "kids" are all in their new home in the SugarToad Garden.

Pest Control, Pruning, Trellising, Tomato Wine Pairings, and Harvesting to come.  Tomato Saga to be concluded with updates as season unfolds…