First Cookbook Written in America

I often look to Europe, and more specifically France, for century old texts on cooking—and—America has a better evolving cookbook history.  The first cookbook in American was published in 1798 by Amelia Simmons entitled American Cookery.  Its mere 48 pages is a good preface for cooks in America.  Typesetting is definitely an art into itself.

Ingredients utilized back in the day were a little different than they are today; you had to preserve many fruits and vegetables. Procuring loaf sugar nowadays may be a little difficult.  They didn’t have stoves, but fire and cast iron pots.  I don’t see many turtles at the local supermarkets and for economy sake, every part of an animal and ingredient had to be used.  It took several weeks and much patience to cure bacon.

The way cookbook writing has evolved from a narrative of instruction to a more specific ingredient list and method displays are evolution of science, mechanization, and technical writing.  The narrative allows for fluidity, creativity, interpretation, and utilizing what ingredients are around.  Cooks today should learn to be creative with recipes and adapt them to what is locally and economically available.

To read American Cookery click here

Apple Butter Time

The following is a recipe on how to make Märzen Apple Butter for autumn.  I prefer to pick my own peck of apples at a local orchard. I like to get as many varieties as possible, especially ones that are more acidic, like Granny Smith.  I have refined this recipe over the last few years. It is definitely geared towards applications of cocktail making and beverage service.

I always like to research old recipes and learn the ways of our American cooking heritage.  There is nothing more American then apples.    The following is an excerpt from American Cookery by Amelia Simmons published in the 1790’s on preserving another great pom fruit, the quince.

Retrieve a large stock pot.  Core and slice the peck of assorted apples, leaving the skins on, and place them in the stock pot.  Cover them with apple cider and a couple of bottles of Märzen style beer (Oktoberfest), a few cinnamon sticks, and a cup of apple cider vinegar.  Let this come to a simmer and let the apples cook until fork tender.  Strain the apples, reserving the cooking liquid, and process the apples through a food mill.  The leftover liquid makes good hot cider.  Remove the skins, measure the resulting pulp, and place back into the stock pot.  For every cup of apple pulp add a half cup of granulated sugar.  Stir this over a simmer until everything is dissolved, add a little more Märzen, add cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and allspice to taste.  Utilize a Microplane to grate the baking spices fresh and add just a pinch of salt.  If there happens to be some Calvados around, add that too. Cook it down stirring every few minutes until it caramelizes and becomes thick—this will take a few hours.

When it is ready, store it in sterilized mason jars.  It will last several months refrigerated and almost a year frozen.  I like to use it for many winter cocktails.  It makes a great base for Hot Toddies and whiskey based cocktails.  It is great as a condiment with toast and cheeses.  For a hot toddy, add a couple heaping tablespoons of the apple butter to a cup of boiling water, a measure of whiskey, and garnish with a lemon twist.