Thursday, September 15, 2011

Oysters & Months with Rrrr

There is and old adage that we should not eat oysters unless the month contains the letter R.  So, historically speaking, it is September and we may begin eating this aphrodisiac again.  A lot of this is because of weather and temperature—ambiant and water. Oysters that have not been stored properly or exposed to warm air for extended periods of time are not very good.  Their quality deteriorates rapidly.

This adage was coined by Charles Ranhofer in his cookbook The Epicurean.  Published in the 1890's, it contains the recipes and receipts of Delmonico's in NYC.  If we can imagine Blue Points from North Fork and how long it used to take to transport them to Manhatten—and they probably were not shipped on ice.  It reminds me of how the Romans used to ship oysters from Brittany to Rome through French rivers and would only do this in the winter months.  The following excerpt from The Epicurean explains the R with oysters.


With modern refrigeration and delivery channels today, we may consume oysters at any time of the year.  Bivalve farmers have learned to farm them in cold northerly waters and air travel lets us ship them to market packed on dry ice in about 24 hours. 

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