Fortified America

If a sommelier was in the Queen’s navy they would definitely sleep on the Port side. Oporto is a port city in Portugal and exports fortified wine called port to the English speaking world. Investigations into colonial trade routes explain the accidental invention of Madeira. Though port is similar in that it is fortified and from Portugal, Madeira is more American.

Every American knows Madeira, probably from high school history class. It’s what the Founding Fathers drank as they signed the Declaration of Independence. Madeira is actually a volcanic island situated off the coast of Portugal in the Mid-Atlantic.

It starts with the triangle of trade during colonial times. Merchant ships departed from various ports in Europe. They take a pit stop at Madeira for supplies and barrels of wine. It would be fortified with a neutral brandy to help the barrels not spoil for the long Atlantic voyage.

While in route to the West Indies or Africa, the barrels would constantly sway with the ship constantly mixing and agitating the wine. They are exposed to the heat and salty humid air of the West Indies and Africa. This gives Madeira its oxidized, salty, and nutty qualities. The ships would acquire sugar and other commodities to trade with the colonies.

Depending on what colonial port the ship sailed is what style of Madeira developed. A dry style would develop to a port like Charleston. A sweet nutty style developed in route to New York. A creamy complex style marinated its way to Boston. The ships would unload their cargo and head back to Europe.

Madeira was served with soups, stews, and hearty dishes. Colonists usually owned one cast iron pot, and hence, would only have one pot on the fire that was filled with a soup or stew and would enhance the flavor with the addition of Madeira.

Nowadays they don’t actually produce Madeira like it was done centuries back. It is aged in oak barrels in climatically controlled rooms that simulate the ocean voyage. Next—the favorite song from Jersey Boys—Sherry…