Food & Cookbook Resources

Gastronomy- (1) The study of food (2) The science to art of good eating

A few resources that I constantly use to research gastronomy are listed below.

The Food Timeline
A great timeline on the history of man and food going back to caveman times.  Great resource and definitions of foodstuffs and when they became important to mankind.

Feeding America: The Historic American Cookbook Project
A collection of classic cookbooks on American cookery archived by the Michigan State Library.  It has provided me many sleepless nights and hours of enjoyment.  Browse through this collection for your gastronomic enjoyment.  Most of the offerings are available to view in PDF.

Los Angeles Public Library Menu Collection
A collection of searchable restaurant menus by cuisine, date, and restaurant.  Check it out to view vintage menus.

Biodynamic Cider

It is Autumn so I am tired of tomatoes and am now inspired by apples and pears.  The majority of apples and pears for America are grown in the Pacific Northwest.  The majority of apples and pears in France are grown in Normandy and I would hope most Americans know where this is.  Cider is one of the best values and underated beverages out there.  I am now quite fond of the ciders produced by Eric Bordelet in Normandy.

Inspired by the late Didier Dagueneau, a champion of biodynamics and master of sauvignon blanc, Sommelier Eric Bordelet left his job at a Parisian Michelin 3-Star Restaurant to pursue his family heritage of orchards and cider in Normandy.  In the early 1990's he began applying biodynamic practices to about 15 hectares of apples and pears he farms. Some sections of the orchards have 40-50 year old trees.  There are about twenty different varieties apples and about 15 of pear all ranging from savory to sweet.  Eric Bordelet Website Click Here

The fruit is allowed to cure or dehydrate for about 4-5 weeks before it is pressed.  The result is some of the best and most complex cider I have ever tasted.  There are several different bottlings from dry to off dry and the more expensive ones are probably made with the fruit from the older parts of the orchards.  With apple, pear, caramel, hay, & honey like notes it is lower in alcohol and lightly effervescent.  I could drink it all day with Brie cheese. 

Old Chicago Wine Lists

The following are a few vintage Chicago restaurant wine lists and I wish the prices were the same.  1947 Chateau d' Yquem for $10!!!
You can view old menus at the LA Public Library archives.

The Buttery at the Ambassador East Hotel in the Gold Coast...Circa 1960's.

Barney's Market Club on Randolph Street.  Circa 1940's.

Allgauer's Nufer Restaurant on North Ridge Ave.  Circa 1940's.

DDT Day

I am not here to say if DDT is good or bad, should be banned, sprayed, or eaten—just keep it away from the grapes.  It reaffirms to me that unnatural things are bad and biodynamic concepts are good. 

It is a lot like the mercury in tuna argument and lead paint is bad for kids.  It's all about balance and moderation.  If all you feed babies is organic carrots, their skin will start to turn orange.  Some of the following is hilarious, absurd, and ironic...and I like bugs.

This is a 1947 Time Magazine advertisement "DDT is Good for Me."

Let's spray some DDT on the kids in the swimming pool.

DDT is harmless to humans.



Time Magazine Article on buying WWII surplus DDT.

How to Understand French Grapes and Where They Come From

The following is how I taught myself to understand French grapes and where they come.  American wines are labeled by grape variety.  French wines are labeled by the area in which they come from which generally implies a certain wine style and/or grape(s).  The French government has a system called Appellation d'origine Controlee (AOC) which regulates what grapes may be grown where.  There are derivatives of this system and it is constantly changing.

I first learned by breaking France into the following 6 major regions: Loire Valley, Bordeaux, Rhone Valley, Burgundy, Alsace, and Champagne.  I then learned which major grapes grow in each respective region.

Loire Valley—Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc

Bordeaux—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon

Rhone Valley—Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Roussanne

Burgundy—Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay

Alsace—Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris

Champagne—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier

There are many other grapes that are allowed to be grown in each respective region, but these are the major ones I learned first.  When I first starting learning about these major regions I pulled out a map of France and stared at the map and drawed on it until each region was stuck into my brain.

Birds & Pinot

So as the weather becomes a little cooler into fall my mind intuitively switches gears and starts thinking of my favorite red varietal pinot noir.  The birds that naturally pair well with pinot noir are squab, quail, chicken, pheasant, and so on. 

Squab is hands down my favorite eating bird, but for some reason, Americans give the pigeon a bad rap.  I think it has something to do with Central Park—they are not flying rats!  They are rich and meaty with a distinctively squabby flavor, and delicious. If I was allowed to in public parks, I would trap them, just as the residents of Dijon did during Nazi occupation in their town square, and then eat them with pinot noir.  Here are two classic dishes that pair well with pinot that is quintessentially, American.

Coq au Vin, “rooster in wine,” is a traditional peasant dish of Burgundy.  It is essentially vegetables, mushrooms, and whatever random chicken cuts around roasted and braised with red wine and herbs.  Naturally, since Burgundy is the motherland of pinot noir, pinot is drunk with this dish.  I prefer a rustic style that is earthy and seductive.  The more dirt I taste the better.  Volnay is a good commune to look for in the Côte de Beaune of Burgundy.

Pekin Duck

Duck à l’Orange is a French dish popularized in the 1960’s most likely by the influences of Julia Child, the Pekin Ducks raised on Long Island, and emergence of Haute Cuisine in Manhattan—Lutèce, Four Seasons, etc.  The orange sauce, Sauce Bigarade, which usually has an addition of sugar, is the origin for the modern day gastrique sauce that is prevalent in modern day restaurant menus.  (Sweet and sour sauce is another theory.) Naturally pinot noir is the perfect match for it—its acidity cuts through the rich sweet sauce.  I like a powerful style of pinot with good fruit and some muscle.  I like a nice Pommard from Domaine Parent in Burgundy or a Santa Barbara County pinot noir—grapes sourced from the Bien Nacido Vineyard stylistically work quite well.  Some producers I enjoy from Santa Barbara are Foxen and Au Bon Climat.

Terrior and Scores

The following clips show some humor, critique, and observations on why sommeliers prefer terrior driven wines. 

This video is freakin' sweet...thanks LindaMV somewhere across the pond for bringing it to my attention...terrior in Napa??? It does exist, but...

And this is the ultimate in terrior...Domaine Romanee Conti...2000 years and counting.  It goes beyond the wine, it's the culture and history.

DRC Terrior Video Click Here

Tomato Schedule for 2012

Tomatoes are a year long project to get a good crop and yield.  The following is a timeline I use to grow tomatoes.

January-Procure tomato seeds.  I get mine from www.tomatofest.com.  There are also many good catalogs out there.  I like to get several varieties including different sizes, colors and short and long season varieties.

February/March-Sow seeds in accordance with the lunar cycle.  I will purchase potting soil and sow them in jiffy pots.  The jiffy pots may be planted directly into the ground.  I will have several fluorescent lights set up wateringthem about every other day and letting the light shine for about 18 hours a day.

April-Move plants outside for several hours each day.  Progressively let them stay outside longer and longer as it becomes warmer.

May-Plant in permanent home after last frost.  Soil should be tilled prior to planting and I like to give it a boost with a fish emulsion.  Place newspapers topped with hay all around the plants for weed control and mulching purposes. 

June-Set up trellising system.  Use bamboo sticks set up like a tipi.  Trim and train the tomato vines as needed to the bamboo sticks with twine.

August/September-Harvest and enjoy—should have production until temperature drops consistantly below 55 degrees F.

October-Purchase bales of hay for next season.

Oak Joke

The following is a conversation I had on the telephone a little over a year ago...

Saturday 2 p.m.
ring ring ring...

"Good day sir," Timothy answered.
"Is a manager there?" asked the caller.
"Timothy speaking, (sommelier) may I help you?"
"Do you have Silver Oak on your list?" said the gentleman.
"No—but we have many great California Cabernets...Diamond Creek...Bryant Family...Grgich...Duckhorn," Timothy said politely.
"Whoever is doing your wine buyin' doesn't know what they're doing—I'm from the Bay Area," claimed the client.
"Good day sir," Timothy responds placing the receiver down.

When I reflect on this conversation I will always find it quite amusing.  I am always diplomatic when it comes to wine, but off the record, Silver Oak's inside joke is to call it Silver Joke.  It's not that it's a bad wine, but the people that drink it tend to put the snobbery into wine.  There's always diners that want to impress their guests and show off how much they know about wine. They want to try and stump the sommelier by chatting about the review and score they just read about in the Wine Spectator or Robert Parker.  It's always a little strange and awkward when a client is trying to tell you about all the great local pinot noir he recently drank while vacationing in Bordeaux.

Honestly, I constantly read reviews , but I really don't care about scores and numbers.  I am not a critic.  I am a service professional trained to objectively assess wine and serve wine warranting a client's preferences.  Wine doesn't have to cost a lot of money to be good.  I would rather serve a complex, obscure, food-friendly $50 bottle then a $500 bottle that is overpriced, high in alcohol, and one-dimensional.  Wine doesn't have to be expensive or have a high score to be great!

Sauvignon Blanc for Fall

When I think sauvignon blanc, I usually begin to think of fresh cut grass, all things green, and spring—but —towards the end of September there is a toony hither of brown and dead grass. There is the first of fallen leaves in the mix as the grass is mowed that makes me think to drink sauvignon blanc.

Sauvignon is incredibly diverse.  The styles I drink in spring are different than the styles I drink in the Fall.  I like to think of sauvignons with extended lees contact; influenced by neutral oak; definitively terroir driven; rich and complex; or aged for several years. 

Some Sauvignons that I think meet some of the criteria:

Quivira “Fig Tree Vineyard” Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County 2009

Biodynamically farmed with neutral oak and stainless steel fermentation with extended lees contact

Cloudy Bay “Te Koko” Marlborough New Zealand 2007

Oak aged, lees contact, left to mature for three years before release

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre (at least 5-7 years old) >2005

May seem strange, but acidity preserves things, and the general racing acidity and grassy notes of Sancerre mellow into brown grass and hay—I have strange tastes… I also love things that smell like diesel fuel…

First Cookbook Written in America

I often look to Europe, and more specifically France, for century old texts on cooking—and—America has a better evolving cookbook history.  The first cookbook in American was published in 1798 by Amelia Simmons entitled American Cookery.  Its mere 48 pages is a good preface for cooks in America.  Typesetting is definitely an art into itself.

Ingredients utilized back in the day were a little different than they are today; you had to preserve many fruits and vegetables. Procuring loaf sugar nowadays may be a little difficult.  They didn’t have stoves, but fire and cast iron pots.  I don’t see many turtles at the local supermarkets and for economy sake, every part of an animal and ingredient had to be used.  It took several weeks and much patience to cure bacon.

The way cookbook writing has evolved from a narrative of instruction to a more specific ingredient list and method displays are evolution of science, mechanization, and technical writing.  The narrative allows for fluidity, creativity, interpretation, and utilizing what ingredients are around.  Cooks today should learn to be creative with recipes and adapt them to what is locally and economically available.

To read American Cookery click here

Apple Butter Time

The following is a recipe on how to make Märzen Apple Butter for autumn.  I prefer to pick my own peck of apples at a local orchard. I like to get as many varieties as possible, especially ones that are more acidic, like Granny Smith.  I have refined this recipe over the last few years. It is definitely geared towards applications of cocktail making and beverage service.

I always like to research old recipes and learn the ways of our American cooking heritage.  There is nothing more American then apples.    The following is an excerpt from American Cookery by Amelia Simmons published in the 1790’s on preserving another great pom fruit, the quince.

Retrieve a large stock pot.  Core and slice the peck of assorted apples, leaving the skins on, and place them in the stock pot.  Cover them with apple cider and a couple of bottles of Märzen style beer (Oktoberfest), a few cinnamon sticks, and a cup of apple cider vinegar.  Let this come to a simmer and let the apples cook until fork tender.  Strain the apples, reserving the cooking liquid, and process the apples through a food mill.  The leftover liquid makes good hot cider.  Remove the skins, measure the resulting pulp, and place back into the stock pot.  For every cup of apple pulp add a half cup of granulated sugar.  Stir this over a simmer until everything is dissolved, add a little more Märzen, add cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and allspice to taste.  Utilize a Microplane to grate the baking spices fresh and add just a pinch of salt.  If there happens to be some Calvados around, add that too. Cook it down stirring every few minutes until it caramelizes and becomes thick—this will take a few hours.

When it is ready, store it in sterilized mason jars.  It will last several months refrigerated and almost a year frozen.  I like to use it for many winter cocktails.  It makes a great base for Hot Toddies and whiskey based cocktails.  It is great as a condiment with toast and cheeses.  For a hot toddy, add a couple heaping tablespoons of the apple butter to a cup of boiling water, a measure of whiskey, and garnish with a lemon twist.

Kermit the Frog Coffee Beginnings

Kermit the Frog and Jim Henson's humble beginnings are gastronomically related.  Kermit got his start doing Wilkins Coffee ads in 1957.  Highly entertaining and I hope know one gets blown up!

Oysters & Months with Rrrr

There is and old adage that we should not eat oysters unless the month contains the letter R.  So, historically speaking, it is September and we may begin eating this aphrodisiac again.  A lot of this is because of weather and temperature—ambiant and water. Oysters that have not been stored properly or exposed to warm air for extended periods of time are not very good.  Their quality deteriorates rapidly.

This adage was coined by Charles Ranhofer in his cookbook The Epicurean.  Published in the 1890's, it contains the recipes and receipts of Delmonico's in NYC.  If we can imagine Blue Points from North Fork and how long it used to take to transport them to Manhatten—and they probably were not shipped on ice.  It reminds me of how the Romans used to ship oysters from Brittany to Rome through French rivers and would only do this in the winter months.  The following excerpt from The Epicurean explains the R with oysters.

With modern refrigeration and delivery channels today, we may consume oysters at any time of the year.  Bivalve farmers have learned to farm them in cold northerly waters and air travel lets us ship them to market packed on dry ice in about 24 hours. 

Riedel Breakage

Recently digging through my notes I came across this menu from a dinner back in 2005 with the Fat Duck, Tetsuya's, and Dom Perignon at Charlie Trotter's.  Hands down this was the most chaotic and challenging dinner I have ever worked, and, I'll never forget the amount of Riedel stemware I broke.  (Especially the kind displayed in the NY Museum of Modern Art...yikes!)  Several vintages of Dom Perignon was served and it was definitely a night to remember from a service standpoint.

Cookie Monster Training

Cookie Monster assesses the cookie—just like blind tasting.

1. Look at cookie
2. Identify the cookie
3. Smell cookie
4. Eat the cookie

Cookie Monster meets Count and counts the cookies—just like inventory on the first of the month, and then tasting what you counted.

Cookie Monster interview with by Matt Lauer—learn to be diplomatic with all types of food people, carnivores, and vegetarians...I'm perfectly omnivorous...Cookies? Vegetables?

Interview on NPR—Cookie Monster eats everything including microphone—must taste everything!

Grover the Waiter Training Videos

Before one must becomes a sommelier they must master the art of waiting tables.  The following video may be used to teach young ones the art of waiting tables.  Sesame Street has always been a leader in job training...

Helping guests with portion size.

 Learn how to deal with guest complaints about a fly in soup.

Learn Italian cuisine.

How waiters remember things—Poetry.

Round and tasty on a bun

Pickles, french fries, yum-yum-yum

In a hurry to be fed

Beady eyes and big blue head

Don't Boil Your Crabs

I have always been curious of estuary waters and their effects on seafood.  Spending summer weekends at the Jersey Shore, I often went crabbing in estuary inlets.  I remember being stung by jellyfish.  I noticed that water in some  areas tasted saltier then others—don't ask why...  We would take the catch from the traps and boil the crabs with local corn.    I harassed the crabs with my plastic sand castle shovel just before they were to meet their boiling destiny.

Buyin' Shrimp in Mississippi after Hurricane Katrina

At one of my first restaurant jobs, the cooks about killed me one day when I submerged a crab in fresh water.  They told me you got to “steam ‘em—you’ve got to steam all crustaceans.”  They said when cleaning shellfish you want to clean them with as little water as possible. 


I often wondered why your skin in fresh water gets wrinkly and in salt water it seems to shrink—like I just had a face lift.  This has to do with a concept called osmotic equilibrium.  The balance of salt through osmosis will effect whether your skin swells or tightens. 


Naturally, solutions want to be in equilibrium, and move from areas of high concentration to low concentration, hence osmosis. This happens through the semi-permeable cell membranes.  Fresh water with higher osmotic pressure moves into your skin with lower osmotic pressure causing it to poof and wrinkle.  The lower osmotic pressure in the skin is due to the salt that exists naturally in our bodies.  The salt concentration is higher in the skin, but the pure water concentration is lower.  The reverse effect happens when you are swimming in salt water. Your skin tightens,  feeling like you just had surgery performed by Dr. 90210.

Osmotic equilibrium may help to explain why some fish mongers argue never to boil shellfish, but steam them.  The natural flavors will be lost.  Steaming is a gentler cooking method then boiling.  So please don't boil your crabs.

Careme Let's Them Eat Cake

Marie Antoine Careme greatly influenced the Grand Cuisine.  He is one of the most important French chefs of all time.  Careme is named for Marie Antoinette and was orphaned during the French Revolution. As the legend goes, he was rescued by a pastry chef at ten in the streets of Paris. He then began a cooking apprenticeship. Careme is first and foremost a pastry chef by training.

He was considered arrogant by many of his contemporaries, but cooked for the nobles and aristocracy all over Europe. This included Duc de Talleyrand, Napoleon, Czar Nicholas the II in St. Petersburg, and the Prince Regent in England around 1815. His kitchen at the Brighton House in London was state of the art for the time and had some of the first steam tables to ever exist.

He documented much of his life’s work publishing nearly thirty cookbooks. He studied Palladian architecture and took drafting lessons to draw and document a lot of his elaborate displays and cakes. Some of his works include Le Maitre d’hotel Francais, Le Cuisinier Parisien, and L’ Art de la Cuisine. The irony of an orphaned boy cooking for the aristocracy really "let them eat cake," and, this phrase is often credited to Marie Antoinette, by was actually said by Rousseau in his Confessions. 

He is accredited for pioneering such techniques as the piping bag, spinning sugar, and meringue. He developed the mother sauces, introduced the chef’s hat, and brought Russian service to France. At a Napoleonic banquet at Vertus, he invented the canapé.

For a great in depth look at the life of Antoine Careme, check out Ian Kelly’s book Cooking for Kings. Click Here for Ian Kelly's site

The Fish of The Old Man and the Sea

Ernest Hemingway's The Old Man and the Sea has been read by millions.  I am always curious how certain foodstuffs are more prevalent then others in the American language.    The following are the fish from The Old Man and the Sea.  It might help to explain why Americans are more romantic with some fish then others.  The mighty Joe DiMaggio did hit in 56 consecutive games, and the Cubs still have not won the World Series...(Back to The Future 2 has until 2015 to prove itself correct)

Marlin-the big fish Santiago caught

He was bright in the sun and his head and back were dark purple and in the sun the stripes on his sides showed wide and a light lavender.  His sword was as long as a baseball bat and tapered like a rapier and he rose his full length from the water and then re-entered it, smoothly, like a diver and the old man saw the great scythe-blade of his tail go under and the line commenced to race out.

Albacore-"He'll make a beautiful bait"

Tuna/Bonito-the old man caught some and ate raw on the skiff

Mako Shark-first shark to attack the marlin on the return trip to Havana

Shovel Nose Shark-attacked the great marlin in pairs

Dolphin/Dorado/Mahi Mahi-the old man thinks is a horrible raw eating fish, but excellent for grilling

Sardine-bait fish

Flying Fish-what the dolphin fish ate, when the old man saw these fish, he knew dolphin were near by, he also wished these fish would fly into the boat

Shrimp-a quick bite of nourishment for the old man as he nears the bay

What Fermented First—Beer or Wine?

As a sommelier I naturally think grapes fermented first before grains.  But, what was fermented first often strikes arguments amongst beverage geeks.  It is a lot like the chicken and egg argument—I think the chicken came first—single celled organisms had to split and split and split enough times to become chickens—then they could lay eggs.  Origins of each may be traced to the Neolithic period in Asia Minor, Mesopotamia, and Egypt.

I think of primitive man with club in hand, spending half the day making fire, living in cave-like dwelling.  They gather the good-looking grapes from vines into a carved out wood like bowl.  They forget about it leaving it in the sun.  Several weeks later they find it and it is now a delicious liquid.  They naturally want to drink more and more.  Deductively speaking, animals are naturally attracted to the sweet colorful fruit—not grains—as the honey bees are attracted to beautiful flowers.

Grains have to be soaked in water and processed to ferment.  Before man figured out how to make bread, they procured grains, added water, and a porridge like substance resulted.  Let porridge like substance sit out in sun to ferment with water and—beer!  Primitively speaking, beer has a few more steps involved.  Some will argue that grains are a more evolved and complex plant then grapes, and in nature, might have fermented first, but I will argue man fermented wine first.

Investigations to Come...

Atom Smasher (Adam Special)

Wine is my passion, beer is my hobby. I need a day off once in a while, so on days off, I get to research beer.  My favorite craft brewery is Two Brothers Brewery located in Warrenville, IL.  It is the time of year for my favorite artisan release they brew called Atom Smasher.  Two Brothers created Atom Smasher in honor of their neighbor Fermilab and particle accelerator.  It is an Oktoberfest/Märzen style. 

In a past life, I came into work one day and a former boss was asking about Adam Special.  I replied staunchly, “what are you talking about?”

“The guy at the bar wants Adam Special.”
Replying again, “What are you talking about?”  I was even more confused and went to the bar to talk to the client.
“You look like a beer geek,” the client noticing my entry.
“No, wine geek, but beer is my hobby.” I replied.
I started a conversation with the guest and ended up selling him some brew from Stone Brewing in California.  The client was from Delaware and lived down the street from Dogfish Head.  I then had a really neat conversation with the client about Two Brothers, Atom Smasher, and all the cool things they are doing.  The “Adam Special” story of my former Spanish speaking boss is still quite humorous to this day.

There are many other great uses for Atom Smasher.  I have made apple butter with it and spread it on English muffins.  I also used the apple butter to make a base for an apple hot toddy.  It mixes well with Bourbon and Whiskey for cocktail making. 

When I research I try to find the most accurate and complete information by a legitimate source.  I am more likely to use information published by a Master Sommelier then a newspaper staff reporter.  I am more likely to use Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia then Wikipedia.  A great resource for beer is the Beer Judges Certification Program (BJCP) Guidelines.  Click Here for Guidelines The following is their entry for the Oktoberfest/Märzen style.  It is always intriguing to learn the history and fermentation behind beverages.  A lot of them evolve out of necessity and trial and error.

Oktoberfest/Märzen

Aroma: Rich German malt aroma (of Vienna and/or Munich malt). A light to moderate toasted malt aroma is often present.  Clean lager aroma with no fruity esters or diacetyl. No hop aroma. Caramel aroma is inappropriate.
Appearance: Dark gold to deep orange-red color. Bright clarity, with solid, off-white, foam stand.
Flavor: Initial malty sweetness, but finish is moderately dry. Distinctive and complex maltiness often includes a toasted aspect. Hop bitterness is moderate, and noble hop flavor is low to none. Balance is toward malt, though the finish is not sweet. Noticeable caramel or roasted flavors are inappropriate. Clean lager character with no diacetyl or fruity esters.
Mouthfeel: Medium body, with a creamy texture and medium carbonation. Smooth. Fully fermented, without a cloying finish.
Overall Impression: Smooth, clean, and rather rich, with a depth of malt character. This is one of the classic malty styles, with a maltiness that is often described as soft, complex, and elegant but never cloying.
History: Origin is credited to Gabriel Sedlmayr, based on an adaptation of the Vienna style developed by Anton Dreher around 1840, shortly after lager yeast was first isolated. Typically brewed in the spring, signaling the end of the traditional brewing season and stored in cold caves or cellars during the warm summer months. Served in autumn amidst traditional celebrations.
Comments: Domestic German versions tend to be golden, like a strong Pils-dominated Helles. Export German versions are typically orange-amber in color, and have a distinctive toasty malt character. German beer tax law limits the OG of the style at 14°P since it is a vollbier, although American versions can be stronger. “Fest” type beers are special occasion beers that are usually stronger than their everyday counterparts.
Ingredients: Grist varies, although German Vienna malt is often the backbone of the grain bill, with some Munich malt, Pils malt, and possibly some crystal malt. All malt should derive from the finest quality two-row barley. Continental hops, especially noble varieties, are most authentic. Somewhat alkaline water (up to 300 PPM), with significant carbonate content is welcome. A decoction mash can help develop the rich malt profile.
Vital Statistics:
OG: 1.050 – 1.057
IBUs: 20 – 28
FG: 1.012 – 1.016
SRM: 7 – 14
ABV: 4.8 – 5.7%
Commercial Examples: Paulaner Oktoberfest, Ayinger Oktoberfest-Märzen, Hacker-Pschorr Original Oktoberfest, Hofbräu Oktoberfest, Victory Festbier, Great Lakes Oktoberfest, Spaten Oktoberfest, Capital Oktoberfest, Gordon Biersch Märzen, Goose Island Oktoberfest, Samuel Adams Oktoberfest (a bit unusual in its late hopping)

Expressing Espresso

Espresso relatively means fast.  Its technology initially was advanced to minimize factory workers break-time.  Coffee breaks could only be a couple of minutes now, or the time it takes to smoke a cigarette!  Many Americans pronounce espresso as expresso—this is incorrect.***  Espresso, as we know it today, has been an evolution in technology and a culinary art to get the perfect crema. 

The modern day espresso machine allows baristas to extract the perfect amount of flavor and oils from roasted, ground coffee beans.  It brews at high temperatures and under pressure.  It allows the barista to make many coffee based drinks including the latte and cappuccino.

Luigi Bezzera advanced the technology just after 1900 by using mostly Italian technology with some French influences.  He filed his patents in December of 1901.  Several years later Desiderio Pavoni bought the rights to the patents, started a company that builds espresso machines, and began to market espresso all over Milan and Italy.  It has become a religion and culinary art to Milan and coffee connoisseurs.  http://www.lapavoni.it/

The first espresso machine in America appeared in New York City at Regio’s Cafe around 1927.  It wasn’t until the late 1940’s that the piston espresso machine was perfected and the crema resulted.  The crema—the perfectly bronzed cream-like extraction that rests atop the espresso.  Today there are many modern types of machines.  Some include podded systems that are electronically controlled, but there is nothing like the barista’s art of a perfectly made espresso.  Espresso machines started popping up all over the NYC, SF Bay Area, and Seattle, in the 1960's and 70's, and the rest is history.

***I unwittingly pronounced it this way in college until I was corrected by an Italian from Milan…I think it is a southern dialect "theeeeiangh," so this Yankee will blame everyone on that side of the Mason-Dixon Line…

Irish Wine & Coffee

There are actually a small handful of wineries in Ireland, but none of it leaves the small communities where they are produced.  The climate is not proper for producing good grapes—it is too cold, wet, and storms are unpredictable, and the Romans never brought grapes with them during their visits way back when.  In some research, I did find one winery in Cork County, Ireland.  The Thomas Walk Vineyard has .98 hectares of grapes!  Probably some obscure hybrid grapes of Eastern European origin.
 

Irish Coffee, as the story goes, was first served to American passengers on a Pam Am flight while in western Ireland sometime in the early 1940’s.  A flight attendant added Irish whiskey to the coffee to warm the passengers up on a cold stormy day.  When the passengers inquired where the coffee was from, the response was “Ireland.”  Unfortunately, because of climate, coffee beans do not grow in Ireland.

Tomato Harvest & Management

It is the peak of harvest for tomatoes.  With a hot July and cooler August, it has taken some of the tomatoes a little longer to ripen than expected.  I should have a good supply of them till almost the end of September, or first frost.  I eat the sweet cherry ones as a sweet snack.  Never place them in the fridge,  the texture becomes mealy.  BLT's, Caprese salad, and chips and salsa are all I really eat this time of year!  The vine ripened tomatoes are best picked a few hours before they are to be eaten.

Some things I have learned this tomato season...
Weed Management
To manage the weeds, place old newspapers all around the plants and cover with hay.  I do this when I transplant the young plants into the ground in May.  This is a cheap mulch.  It helps to keep the ground moist and water constant.  It helps to minimize the amount of watering needed. (Thanks Nancy Quigley)

Trellising
To trellis the tomatoes use bamboo sticks.  Don't use tomato cages!  They are expensive.  Bamboo is green and cheap.  Packages of them can be procured at and garden supply store.  I like to use three of them per tomato plant, forming them in a tipi like structure.  I then tie them with twine at the top.  I can tie the tomato plant as needed to the bamboo sticks.

Wine, Oak, Salt

The following is a tasting exercise that shows how salt and oak play off of one another—good & bad.

Sommeliers generally don’t like heavily oaked chardonnays.  They generally lack acidity and overpower delicate flavors.  They also make foodstuffs taste saltier then they actually are.  There is nothing more cringing then a restaurant patron enjoying Japanese bluefin toro delicately seasoning with Himalayan sea salt and drinking a California chardonnay that has 100% new French oak and 100% malo…and then comments that the food was too salty…  If oaky, buttery chardonnays are your preferred white, stick with richer dishes that have heavy cream sauces.

The Popcorn
Pop a big bowl of popcorn.  Separate it into three bowls. Leave one bowl unsalted.  The second bowl should be seasoned with moderate salt and butter.  The third bowl, aggressively seasoned with salt and butter to the point where it is offensive to your palate—it should taste like a cow’s salt lick.

The Chardonnay
Procure three different chardonnays: one with no oak (all stainless), one with neutral oak, and one with 100% new oak.   Pour each respective chardonnay in a tasting glass and line them up left to right.  The left has no oak, middle neutral oak, and right 100% new oak.

The Tasting
Taste the unoaked chardonnay, with each respective seasoned popcorn, beginning with no salt, and progressing to the saltiest.  See how the wine tastes with each different popcorn.  Repeat the process for the next two chardonnays.  By the time you get to the last pairing of big oak and big salt, you may never want to eat salt again!

This is a great exercise to understand salt, oak, and wine.  It will help you distinguish your preference and threshold for salt.   

Italian Grapes in America

I love Italian wines. The French put the snobbery in wine and the Italians put the love into it.    Honestly, I do think the French are historically better at winemaker. The following are some notes of wineries producing Italian style wines in America that I have tasted over the last few years.

Italian varietals have been popping up all over America—for a lot longer then we might have realized. In the last few years, Zinfandel has been linked to the Italian varietal primitivo which has been thought to be indigenous to Croatia. The history is still open for much debate.  Zinfandel is planted all over Sonoma County, especially in the Dry Creek Valley.  When Italian immigrants came to California, they settled this area and planted many of the grape clippings they brought with them. There are some zinfandel vineyards in Sonoma that are century old. The "Jackass Vineyard" of Martinelli Winery is probably the oldest at about 130 years. Another great Italian winery in Sonoma is Seghesio. They produce great zinfandels as well as a sangiovese blends.

Two wineries in Santa Barbara County that produce Italian varietals are Palmina and Clendenen Family. Both do an outstanding nebbiolo. The Clendenen Family produces one that can easily be mistaken for a Barolo. Palmina produces a pinot grigio that is clean, crisp, and with lots of minerality. Palmina also produces some more of the obscure Italian varietals like dolcetto and arneis.  Clendenen Family produces an old school Friuli varietal called tocai friulano.

There are some really neat Super Tuscan styles being produced in the mountains of Arizona. Arizona Stronghold and Dos Cabezas are producing blends of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. They have also successfully grown the white varietal malvasia.

Winemaker Luca Paschina of Barboursville Vineyards has been producing Italian style wines in Virginia for over twenty years. He is a classically trained Piedmontese winemaker, his family has been producing wines in Italy for several generations. He makes a great nebbiolo, barbera, and pinot grigio.

Check out these wineries for some Italian style wines:
www.martinelliwinery.com
www.seghesio.com
www.palminawines.com
www.aubonclimat.com/  (Clendenen Family)
www.azstronghold.com
www.doscabezaswinery.com
www.barboursvillewine.net