Sauvignon Blanc for Fall

When I think sauvignon blanc, I usually begin to think of fresh cut grass, all things green, and spring—but —towards the end of September there is a toony hither of brown and dead grass. There is the first of fallen leaves in the mix as the grass is mowed that makes me think to drink sauvignon blanc.

Sauvignon is incredibly diverse.  The styles I drink in spring are different than the styles I drink in the Fall.  I like to think of sauvignons with extended lees contact; influenced by neutral oak; definitively terroir driven; rich and complex; or aged for several years. 

Some Sauvignons that I think meet some of the criteria:

Quivira “Fig Tree Vineyard” Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County 2009

Biodynamically farmed with neutral oak and stainless steel fermentation with extended lees contact

Cloudy Bay “Te Koko” Marlborough New Zealand 2007

Oak aged, lees contact, left to mature for three years before release

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre (at least 5-7 years old) >2005

May seem strange, but acidity preserves things, and the general racing acidity and grassy notes of Sancerre mellow into brown grass and hay—I have strange tastes… I also love things that smell like diesel fuel…

Sauvignon Blanc Styles

Sauvignon blanc’s origin is western France.  It is a acidic white varietal that displays herbaceous, grassy, and citrus aromas.  It pairs well with oysters, shellfish, seafood, green vegetables, tomatoes, cured meats, and goat cheese.  Sauvignon rarely takes well to oak and is generally meant to be consumed young.

The two major sauvignon blanc communes of the Loire Valley in northwest France are Sancerre and Pouilly Fume.  Sancerre is a grassy and steely style that became fashionable as a Central Park picnic wine in the 80’s.  Pouilly Fume is a style that is a hint  richer and is sometimes aged shortly in neutral oak for a fuller bodied sauvignon blanc. 

In Bordeaux, France, sauvignon blanc is often blended with a white varietal called semillon which gives it a round finish.  In the commune of Graves it has a good balance of texture, citrus, and minerality.  In some of the northerly communes it can actually age for a decade or more. Sauvignon Blanc is also a blending grape in the famous dessert wine Sauternes. 

In the new world these traditional styles are often mimicked.  California’s style is powerful and citrusy often displaying qualities of lemon and grapefruit.  Robert Mondavi coined the term fume blanc in reference to a California sauvignon blanc made in a style of Pouilly fume. 

Sauvignon Blanc was first planted in New Zealand in the late 70’s.  The style their pushed the envelope with acidity, and hence, the term racing acidity. New Zealand sauvignon blanc is often an incredible value.  They have distinctively green and steely notes, with a nose of passion fruit and kiwi.